11:14 pm
May 9, 2013
I currently have a both a chequing and savings each with ING and PCF (just submitted application).
I also have a TFSA with PT.
I amount I want to keep liquid is with ING's savings account cause I can instantly transfer it to Thrive chequing and use it, but they lowered the (already low) interest rate. I opened the PCF to try and get the 2.0% rate.
Ideally would be to put it with PT @ 3%, but withdrawls and then depositing it back in can bring it over the 31k limit. That and I'm not sure if they limit withdraws to once a month. And because of that, I might have to overestimate the withdrawl to overcome the EFT delay...which messes with the contribution limit if I deposit it back in again.
I read a few posts touching on Oaken's cashable GICs. How does it work? It sounds like a 1yr GIC at 2.05%, but cashable anytime after 90days yet still gives 2.05%/yr? Simple as that?
I can have a few 1yr GICs at 1k at Oaken to keep it liquid?
Also, the Oaken sub-forum has no threads. Do they do EFTs or is it all phone calls and emails?
Accelerate, CDF, and Implicity has 1.9%.
Are their EFT withdrawls as slow as PT's?
Do they have the once a month limit also?
Or maybe Short Bond ETFs? Since if I dont keep it within the same financial instituition, I have to wait like 7 days anyways for the EFT.
How do you guys keep your money liquid yet have it grow?
4:21 am
June 29, 2013
I spoke to Oaken - you need to do everything by phone / mail. They are not set up for EFT.
High Interest Daily Savings Accounts are great for liquidity but money will not grow very much at such low interest rates and the interest is taxable too. For higher returns, one must look elsewhere than daily interest accounts - but one may need to give up liquidity. The Oaken 2.05% GIC is about the best you can do for a liquid vehicle.
6:39 am
February 22, 2013
CharlieFox:
For liquidity I would estimate the amount I will reasonably need over the next "period" and then increment that by 10-40% depending on the amount that results. (If my estimate was $1000 I might keep $1400, but if my estimate was $5000 I might keep $6000 and if my estimate was $10000 I might keep only $110000.)
Then I would simply accept that that amount was going to have less growth. I would then keep it in something that while it bears interest it makes it very easy to access.
I would also really understand the limitations put on the funds I have. In the early days I moved all my "spare cash" from Royal Bank (my main bank) to ING to take advantage of their then 4% interest rate. The next week I needed an amount that was small, but larger than what I had in RBC. ING had a seven day hold on the money. I was fortunate as I had seven days before the cash was needed but could have been in a bind.
I learned from that experience and subsequently would transfer 75% of the funds one day and then wait close to 7 days to transfer the other 25%, thus insuring I was not going to get caught with the hold period.
Each of us needs to weigh all the options fully. If would be really frustrating to be earning $40 in interest and then ended up paying $50 to access a Line of Credit or to pay an SF charge.
Greg
7:17 pm
May 9, 2013
Ah. So basically accept lower percents. Hmmm...
If for me, a few days delay is considered 'liquid', would Short Bond ETFs be ok? The risks are low and I can get better returns than 3%.
Another thing, I asked this in a thread in the PCF forum, but no one replied...
For an EFT transfer, there's few days delay. If on Day 1 I submitted the transfer request and the funds show up on Day 5. During Days 1-5, I receive 0% interest even if both accounts pays interest? My money is like in limbo?
10:28 pm
February 22, 2013
Yes, I accept a little lower income for a little greater safety/peace of mind.
Short Bond ETF's are likely going to cost fees in and out which may well wipe out the benefit.
My experience with EFT's at ING, PCF and RBC is that the money is either "here" or "there" every day and so interest is paid at one of the two ends. CTFS (Canadian Tire) seems to take one day to get to my RBC account but while it arrives in my account "day 2" it will be dated "day 1" and interest is paid from "day 1".
I have initiated transfers from ING to RBC as late as 1 am EST and watched the RBC account during the next day and the money will suddenly show up between 1 and 3 pm EST.
GS
9:29 am
April 6, 2013
CharlieFox said
If for me, a few days delay is considered 'liquid', would Short Bond ETFs be ok? The risks are low and I can get better returns than 3%.
Short-term bond ETF's are not for parking money. Yes, they are liquid. One will receive the funds a few days after the units are sold. However, there's no guarantee that one will receive one's original investment back when one sells.
No way right now a short-term bond EFT can return over 3%, net of managment fees, with just short-term government bonds. According to CanadianFixedIncome.ca, 5-year Government of Canada bonds have a wholesale price that gives a yield-to-maturity of just 1.74% per year. The one-year Government of Canada treasury bills are yielding 0.97% at wholesale pricing.
11:03 am
April 12, 2014
Short-term bond ETFs may not be the best option for a lot of people, but they can be useful under certain circumstances. Personally, I am very happy with the 2.4% income I've received on a Vanguard short-term bond ETF (VSB) in the last 12 months.
True, the price of the ETF has oscillated by about 2% per share during that time, so selling on the wrong day would have almost wiped out my gains. But I don't use this investment for money I think I'll need in the near future.
Also true, I could get a similar return from a 3- or 4-year non-redeemable GIC, AND my original investment would be guaranteed. But this ETF money is also my "in case of emergency, break glass" fund. Besides, unlike the return on a GIC, the return on my ETF will rise if interest rates do. So this seems to work for me.
FYI, I could get a slightly higher rate of return, with slightly higher risk, by buying a short-term fund that holds nothing but investment-grade corporate bonds. (VSB is a mix of government and corporate.) I could also improve returns by buying an intermediate-term bond fund, as opposed to a short-term fund. But the share price of a longer-term bond fund would drop more dramatically if interest rates ever do rise.
FYI#2, the Canadian Couch Potato has a very good explanation of why the money you invest in a bond fund is safe from interest-rate risk as long as you keep your money in the fund long enough. He explains this far better than I can here.)
1:14 pm
October 27, 2013
The subject gets even more interesting since that article was written using the iShares bond ETF examples. There are now short and medium term corporate bond ETF offerings, as well as high yield (junk below investment grade) and high quality (mostly AAA, AA and A ratings). There is probably a combination of yield and duration that would suit almost anyone's appetite..... recognizing the further one steps away from government and/or AAA/AA rated corporate bonds, the higher the risk.
3:21 pm
April 12, 2014
AltaRed said There is probably a combination of yield and duration that would suit almost anyone's appetite..... recognizing the further one steps away from government and/or AAA/AA rated corporate bonds, the higher the risk.
So true. And if you do want safety I just read on CPP that there is now an ETF that invests solely in government-issued strip bonds. It pays a relatively unexciting 1.6% but that's better than my BigBank ("a big bank with an even bigger bank inside") offers for HiS.
I have to admit that for simplicity, predictability, and security it's hard to beat GICs. You just have to be willing to put up with that pesky illiquidity thing.
5:50 pm
April 6, 2013
oldlady said
Short-term bond ETFs may not be the best option for a lot of people, but they can be useful under certain circumstances. Personally, I am very happy with the 2.4% income I've received on a Vanguard short-term bond ETF (VSB) in the last 12 months.
True, the price of the ETF has oscillated by about 2% per share during that time, so selling on the wrong day would have almost wiped out my gains. But I don't use this investment for money I think I'll need in the near future.
Also true, I could get a similar return from a 3- or 4-year non-redeemable GIC, AND my original investment would be guaranteed. But this ETF money is also my "in case of emergency, break glass" fund. Besides, unlike the return on a GIC, the return on my ETF will rise if interest rates do. So this seems to work for me.
....
I'm not sure you will be receiving a higher rate of return.
Bonds and bond ETF's do not work exactly the same way as GIC's. One can't just compare the interest rates to compare returns.
With a GIC, the face value is both what one invests and what one receives at maturity. That's often not the case with bonds. Bonds are often bought pre-owned. So, the purchase price and the face value/maturity value of a bond won't be the same for a subsequent purchaser if interest rates have moved since the bond's initial owner. When interest rates dropped, as they have recently, purchasers will have to pay above face value for the bond because of the higher interest payments of the older bonds.
Consequently, a bond investor may not receive their original purchase price when the bond matures. That is compensated by the higher interest payments (the coupons) in the meantime. A yield-to-maturity calculation needs to be used for comparison.
I had a look at the Canadian Short-Term Bond Index ETF (VSB) you had mentioned. It has an average coupon of 2.8%. So, the bonds in the ETF have interest payments of 2.8% of the maturity value of the bonds.
The yield to maturity is a lower 1.6%. That means, the maturity value of the bonds is lower than their purchase value. There will be a small capital loss when the bonds mature that brings the actual return from 2.8% down to 1.6%.
8:03 pm
October 21, 2013
I can't help but note that the spread between the best daily interest rates available and GICs of 1 or 2 years is getting smaller and smaller. In the case of some selected TFSA rates, there really isn't any difference, or there is a negative difference. Similarly, some of the promotional offers in daily interest, which could be repeated periodically, are about the same as some 1 and 2 yr GIC rates, and could average out over a year to a more reasonable rate.
The rate competition, for the most part, right now, seems to be in daily interest and 1 yr rates.
I know every basis point matters but if you're not dealing with a whole lot of money and you want liquidity, it's something to think about.
Similarly, I am wondering if the rate inflation risk with bond ETFs is really worth it, considering the returns are in the same range.
Just a thought.
6:34 am
April 12, 2014
Loonie said I am wondering if the rate inflation risk with bond ETFs is really worth it, considering the returns are in the same range.
It depends on what you want the money for as well as other factors such as how much money you have in your overall portfolio, how that money is invested, whether you are investing inside a taxable or non-taxable account, and your overall investment style.
For instance, if you have an investment portfolio that includes stocks the conventional wisdom is that you probably will also want to hold bonds. In this case your bond holdings are there not just for income but, perhaps more importantly, as a sort of ballast to keep your portfolio on an even keel. The conventional wisdom would also argue that you want to hold bonds so you can sell them to buy stocks the next time there's a "stock market correction" (translation: everyone else is selling).
On the other hand, if you're just looking to make the best possible return on cash that you might need soon, bond funds are almost certainly not a good choice.
And then there's that huge grey area in between, where the tradeoffs are complicated enough to give you--well, me anyway--headaches.
7:04 am
October 21, 2013
7:22 am
October 21, 2013
CharlieFox said
Ideally would be to put it with PT @ 3%, but withdrawls and then depositing it back in can bring it over the 31k limit. That and I'm not sure if they limit withdraws to once a month. And because of that, I might have to overestimate the withdrawl to overcome the EFT delay...which messes with the contribution limit if I deposit it back in again.
Your TFSA contribution limit is not affected by withdrawals per se. You can redeposit whatever you withdraw as long as you wait until the following January. See https://www.highinterestsavings.ca/forum/pc-financial/april-2014-rate-drops-to-1-30/#post10575 .
So then the issue is whether the frequency of permitted withdrawals by PT is less than you can live with, and also whether you expect to have the money available to redeposit before January. On the latter question, you could always put it in Accelerate etc until January. Depending on when, during the year, you are making the withdrawal and when you expect to have the money available again, this might be a good option.
It sounds like you don't already have your TFSA topped up (or else you would presumably not be thinking in terms of using this route, as it would already be maxed out). This being the case, it would almost certainly be your best option, to use up the TFSA room first, as long as the withdrawals you will require are permitted. This is because the income from the TFSA is tax-exempt. Even at a low 20% tax bracket, if you leave it outside the TFSA, then you are automatically losing 20% off the top of whatever return you get. So much the worse if you're in a higher bracket. If you put it in some kind of bond fund inside a TFSA, and you lose money on that at the time you have to withdraw it, you will never be able to get that lost room back in your TFSA.
7:53 am
April 12, 2014
Norman1 is absolutely correct--we can't compare bond funds to other investments just by looking at interest rates/returns. On the contrary, there are a lot of factors to be considered in comparing these investments, and rate of return is just one consideration. Bond funds are just one option that may fit some investors' needs.
To clarify, I did not mean to imply the overall rate of return on VSB would be better than a GIC. I referred to the income from the investment in the last 12 months, and merely said I was happy with it. As it happens, if I had bought VSB at open exactly one year ago and sold it at open today, I would have lost 13 cents/share, or about 0.5%. With income of 2.4% in that particular 12-month period, I would still be happy, if not overjoyed.
But I didn't buy it exactly 12 months ago and I didn't sell it today, and that's a crucial difference between a bond ETF and a GIC. GICs are guaranteed and predictable. Returns on bond ETFs are going to vary depending on when you buy and sell, as well as on the characteristics of the bonds in the fund. This is one reason why GICs probably are a better choice for most people.
Norman1 is also quite right that when comparing bond funds, investors usually look at the average yield to maturity to get an idea of the return they can expect. But precisely because bond funds are not like GICs (and also not like individual bonds), YTM is an indicator, not a guarantee. The individual investor's results will vary depending on when the fund/ETF is purchased and sold.
At any rate I seem to have cast myself in the role of bond fund champion, and this was never my intent. In fact, I think maybe it's time for me to shut up about this!
8:42 pm
April 6, 2013
That's fine; the discussion was a useful one.
Bond ETF's are a useful portfolio building block. I think they are useful when one would like a portion of one's portfolio to behave like a basket of bonds. However, the amount of money involved is not sufficient to get good pricing for individual bonds from a broker. Bond ETF's even replicate the small capital loss one would experience nowadays with most bonds as they decline from their purchase price to their face value as they mature!
I think people will be fine as long as they consider the impact of the likely small loss at maturity, even if interest don't move upward.
Please write your comments in the forum.